Stories from the North

In the tradition I study and practice, Mexica, the direction North gives teachings about transformation, death, re-birth, ancestral memories and wisdom from our grandfathers and ancestors. The past few years during the peak summer month July in Sweden, I travel to the edge of this direction: our family house in the far north. Situated in Sapmí and the Swedish Lapland, just east of the World Heritage Laponia, this truly is the far north. Reindeers show us the way as the car drives further and further along the empty roads in the forest. The outback and wilderness of Sweden live precisely here.

Every year I go with my sisters and brothers, blood or heart family or both. This year, Hubby and I went on a long road trip to get there. It amazes me that every year I long for the tranquility, the wild rivers and deep forests surrounding the mountains and it seems I have forgotten about the Story of the North. Every year I seem to forget about the hardship of North’s transformational journey. Or, most likely, that is why I go. To remember. To transform.

The trip itself is a long and, in many ways, challenging one of about 1700 kms. Last year, as some might remember, my partner and I hitchhiked and tried to find various cheap options to travel thru Sweden. We crisscrossed the country with free rental cars, local buses and trains to get here. Previous years, I’ve taken the over-night train or driven all the way with only a few bathroom stops. This year was a compromise with driving divided into smaller journeys. Upon arrival, everybody always gives a sigh of relief, happiness and gratitude that we made it. And then we rest. For several days we rest, with some occasional sauna bathing in between. After about four days the restlessness arrives. It takes over the entire body by allowing tiredness to linger while heaviness starts to make room in the emotional, mental and physical body.

remains of a Sami Kåta (tipi), with the fire in the center

remains of a Sami Kåta (tipi), with the fire in the center

One year, I tried to cure this restlessness by going for a run. It was a late summer afternoon, still warm and bright as daylight as I tied my shoes and went off. Outside the house runs one narrow dirt road and I figured it was best to simply follow it for a few kilometers and then turn around or I would get lost. After a couple of minutes, my skin was warm and moist, attracting mosquitos from the nearby village but I decided to keep going. Running the restlessness away. Suddenly, I see a big four-legged mammal some 300 meters in front of me! In the middle of the road, it stood staring at me. I tried to determine weather it was a moose or a reindeer, but it was too far away to tell for sure. My heart started pumping faster as I knew encountering an angry Mama Moose is nothing I wanted to do by myself in the middle of the forest (i.e. their territory!). The mosquitos bit hard, my pulse pumped and I decided to carry on (nothing could stop me in the pursuit for a cure against restlessness!). The four-legged ran into the forest before I got to see it properly but as I neared the place where it had stood I got the feeling of being observed. I slowed down again and started to listen. Nothingness. Slowly, I continued to run and turned my head to look over my shoulder. And there, in the edge of the forest it stood curiously starring at me! I jumped in surprise! Thankfully, it was a beautiful light grey reindeer that wanted to accompany me. But I had reached the point of return and instead started my way back.

Filled with mosquitos and bites by now, I ran faster while looking down at my feet in an attempt to keep them out off my eyes. Luckily, I kept my gaze at my feet as I turned onto the path towards the house and had to jump half a meter up in the air and to the right because of a fat and sun gazed snake that angrily opened its mouth and rose towards me! My instant jump made me avoid its jaws by just an inch. Back home, I went strait to the sauna to contemplate and decided that the mosquitos were reason enough not go running in this environment again.

Nowadays, I do my practice outside every morning and together with the mosquitos (sure, some mornings this might mean lighting all the incense at once) and the occasional reindeers passing by. I’ve learnt how to accept and embrace that they are too part of my practice and part of my story. But the deep and true teachings come from the hidden allegories inside the vast mountain stories; the endless forests filled with berries, the powerful rivers, and reindeer medicine, never ending daylight, the sauna and the stillness of Nature. Here lies the restlessness and all you have to do is to listen. Listen to the stories of the north.

The teachings of North are the stories of the un-imaginable amount of mosquitos and a never setting sun in summer, of the deep, dark, and cold winter, and of the dark energies that rest here. Dark energies coming from the history of the land(s), from our collective ancestral memory, and for me also from my ancestral blood linage memory. Here, in the silence between the mountains, death is always present. Few of the original habitants remain as they one by one grow older and pass on, their kids being long gone to the city. The abandoned villages and houses become more empty each day. Empty with stories that no one cares to listen to. And every here and there, houses and trees hold the souls that refuse to travel on because they never got to tell their story. They linger on until someone listens, giving the whole area a greyish gloom of unwelcoming bitterness and perhaps a protective shield against intruders. In the midst of this, my ancestral stories come to the surface as I climb the mountain or walk the swamps. Ancestral memories from the blood linage that are planted on this land, as well as those from my own personal story that needs to be healed reveal themselves inside the restlessness, darkness and silence. And just as in Costa Rica and the Mexica tradition I turn to the Temazcal (sweat lodge) for purification and to peel of layers to refine my being, here in the North I retreat to the firewood sauna where I can hide away from mosquitos and let my body and soul heal by listening to the stories wanting to be told. Over and over again.  

The Nomadic Yogi

According to Sri Pattabhi Jois and his Yoga Mala, the space where you do your asana practice (poses) should be open and clean. In the west we are used to shalas being spacious and with a lot of room in between yourself and your neighbor. The studios are clean, have a good temperature and are QUIET. Most of us even expect a yoga space to be this way. However, yoga is about being able to quiet the mind to ground oneself and to stay focused. We practice these things on the mat to be able to apply them in our everyday life. Sticking to a regular practice while traveling is of course challenging in many ways but I believe it to be beneficial for me and for my practice to face these challenges. As yet a Staying Healthy On The Road post and to give you inspiration to keep rolling out your mat wherever you are, I share with you some of the places I’ve been doing my asanas the last few months. In some of them I had to take a few extra breaths to focus on myself instead of outside distractions, whilst in others magic happens(ed). I believe we need both sides of the coin, or it’ll get boring ;)

 

1. Hostel floor next to yesterday's stinking beer cans

Beds on Bohio, Jaco, Costa Rica

I am grateful for the spacious privates and their including patios in this place. Hostels are always a challenge for yoga practice since it’s never silent. This is not the first hostel where I’ve been doing my morning practice, nor is it the only or last one. It is, however, the only party-hostel I would stay at and where I keep showing up regularly. The smell of yesterday’s party (or the sounds of it during night) is part of the experience and I breathe through any annoyance that might come up. In addition to remind myself about the gratitude I feel for having a mat-sized patio outside the room. 

2. In the jungle together with all kinds of friendly animals that want to join me.

Uvita jungle hostel, Costa Rica

Practicing in the jungle is amazing in so many ways; the colors, the clean air, the heat, the curious hummingbirds and playful toucans, and the sounds of the forest. However, every now and again mosquitos, ants and simply all kinds of bugs like to join in. And sometimes cats. That is fine though, I like that kind of company, it keeps me staying humble.

3. Together with 22 awesome women, every morning for 22 days, on an uneven and semi-broken wooden floor

Yoga in Tamarindo with Drishti Yoga Teacher Training, Costa RIca.

The challenge for me –who is used to yoga alone- was to suddenly share my practice with others every day, and to be guided through most meditations. Sharing and creating connection in that way open up the heart and let you go deeper in your practice. I am forever grateful for what these lovely ladies shared with and taught me. 

4. On the beach when waves are coming in, removing the sand under my balancing point

Playa Uvita Costa Rica

The picture speaks for itself. Balance and alignment are obviously affected. Good fun to play around with both of these asana foundations though! 

5. On a friend's dusty floor while the news broadcast is blasting out from the radio at 6am

Deep breaths and a strong Drishti to go within and connect are what help me stay grounded and calm in these kinds of situations. Yet a place to grow if it’s added to my practice every now and again.

 

I guess it all comes down to one thing really; learn to lie on the floor everywhere. And all yogis I know love being on the floor so it actually doesn’t take long no matter where we are before our feet are up the wall.

Beds on Bohio, Jaco Beach Costa Rica with Megan and Sabeena

Where do you find it most challenging to do your practice, exercise, meditation or workout? Share in the comments below!

Pura Vida

Yoga Teacher Training Costa Rica

Guanacaste province is located in the northwest of Costa Rica. This province is the warmest in the country and between November and April there is hardly any rain (dry season), resulting in dry forests and a desert like climate.

During one of these hot months is when I decided it was a good time to do a Yoga Teacher Training. It happened to be located just outside of Tamarindo, which is basically as far as you can go from Puerto Viejo (southeastern corner of the country). And it was indeed hot, even I used air-condition! And, occasionally, I really missed the green jungle and all its sounds, movements, rain and humidity. I was surprised, however, that the howler monkeys woke us up around 5 am still, and they were close! Strolling around the surrounding areas showed me the many mango trees and it started to make sense why heaps of monkey families were hanging around in the desert.

Sunset Playa Negra, Guanacaste, Costa Rica

We started late in the mornings (6:45), when the sun was already up, making the sun heat the shala to a boiling temperature by the end of practice (9:30).  Everyday we also practiced teaching, had philosophy class, anatomy class and Yin Yoga. In total, we did more or less five to six hours of physical practice everyday. I truly enjoy that kind of intensity every now and again. The regularity takes my practice to new levels and the wisdom from the physical asanas (postures) grows deeper inside me. For anyone wanting to experience profound transformation, I recommend trying longer retreats (no matter what level you’re at on your path). And of course, I recommend joining me and Yoga By Magie for any workshops, classes and retreats :)

Reversed Prayer. Sunset Jaco Beach, Puntarenas province, Costa Rica

Every seventh day we had a day off. If you’re a yoga junkie, it’s hard not to do any practice at all, even though the body really needs some rest to process what it’s learning. I kept my morning meditations, in addition to going with some of the girls to Playa Negra to try Stand Up Paddleboard Yoga for the first time! We went to an empty beach where the ocean was quiet enough to not knock us of balance. Doing yoga outside can be challenging, but if you’re used to it and have a good drishti (focus) you will enjoy SUP yoga. My favorite part was lying in Savasana (on my back), hands touching the water, looking up to Father Sky and Grandmother Moon, noticing the shore with its trees in the distance while the sun was setting over the west coast of Costa Rica. Big hug to Naturalbeautyyoga who showed us this place!

I am grateful for having met such a beautiful group of strong, independent and open-minded women. Already a couple days in, I asked to experiment with them by guiding them through a drum meditation and ended up doing another one the week after. Thank you all for being so receptive and for everything you shared during these weeks!

Me and two of the girls drove down to Jaco for a couple of nights to get a different scenery and some beach. While they headed back home to Canada, I went visiting another yogini in San Jose and together we bussed down to Puerto Viejo to watch the craziness of the last Easter days. That is to say, I am now back in the buzzing jungle doing yoga, writing on the porch, doing sweat lodges and work at the wellness center.

Sabeena, Megan, Magie at Jaco Beach, Costa Rica

What did you do for Easter?

 

Pura Vida

 

Famous sunset Jaco Beach, Costa RIca. Foto: Magdalena Larsson

Famous sunset Jaco Beach, Costa RIca. Foto: Magdalena Larsson


How To Get Rid of a Jungle Bug (or Parasite)

What To Do When You Get Sick In The Jungle

Sometimes when travelling you get sick. I’d say almost always when you’re visiting the countryside or more remote areas in a country. Like here, in the Costa Rican jungle. Costa Rica is a clean and healthy country. Puerto Viejo also has amazing food and the overall cleanliness is high. Yet, coming here you will experience some stomach troubles: diarrhea, vomiting, pain, fever, or all of it. There is a little jungle bug that wants to clean your inside. I say: let her do it! Don’t fight it or you will feel worse. However, there are things you can do to ease the process and get well again. I’ve listed some of them here. First off, in this article I talk about parasites/stomach problems and not for instance dengue fever, which also is somewhat common around these areas.

The Jungle Behind Town, Puerto Viejo Costa Rica

The Jungle Behind Town, Puerto Viejo Costa Rica

1.     Find a medicine woman/man or Shaman of the area who knows about the local plants and treatments. If you plan to stay for a while, I recommend doing this straight away so that in case of illness you know who to call for bush medicine

2.  Make sure you drink plenty or you will have to go to the hospital due to dehydration (if you’re the travel mate: make sure your friend drinks a lot)! I am talking about water, tea and coconut water- not coke! (this is nothing like the stomach problems you grew up with in Europe). The carbonic acid in sodas makes the stomach problems worse by adding a lot of air/gas to it, which you really don’t need more of. If you want sweet, I suggest making some sort of ice tea/warm herbal tea instead, or drink coconut water which also helps you stay hydrated. Chamomile is an acknowledged and widely used herb to treat various stomach/digestive problems and fever, among other things. You can find it in regular food stores all over the world. Make it a habit to always carry some with you. 

3. Let it all come out. In the Caribbean tradition as well as for instance Ayurveda, the body and digestive system are to be kept clean or disease will occur. And in case of illnes, a washout or cleanse is necessary to heal. 

Pills such as ibuprofen or Dimor only stop the symptoms- they don’t treat the problem. Avoid these as much as you can, unless you want it to get worse (or are on a bus). 

4. When you want to start eating again, try some stomach stabilizing fruits like papaya and banana with cinnamon before moving on to rice. Papaya is a digestive agent and banana is a well-used plant to treat diarrhea. In addition, cinnamon is a wonderful herb used for many things, including digestive problems, nausea and vomiting.

Last night a banana three fell outside the cabin, let's hope the platains are ready to eat soon!

Last night a banana three fell outside the cabin, let's hope the platains are ready to eat soon!

5. If you’re sick for a long time and the bug doesn’t want to go away, consider seeing a doctor to get antibiotics. Chances are that your belly won’t be happy taking a lot of pills though. Antibiotics can cause fungal infections for instance. Furthermore, you might end up not getting rid of the bug at all but carry it with you back home and having to go through several rounds of antibiotics. No fun :/

And yes, this post came into existence due to some vomiting around the house. We are now eating again and I have received clear messages that I should stick to the purest food possible from now on. Like this bowl of brown rice boiled with turmeric and culantro, carrots, broccoli, avocado, lettuce and pejibaye

Organic veggies from local farmers in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica & Chamomile tea

Organic veggies from local farmers in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica & Chamomile tea

Do you have any Being Sick On The Road stories? Or more suggestions on what to do when you are sick with a parasite? Please share in the comments below!

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Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

I have homes everywhere, many of which I have not seen yet. That is perhaps why I am restless. I haven’t seen all my homes.

–Steinbeck

Citatet från Steinbeck är en god introduktion till dagens inlägg som till stor del kommer handla om att känna sig hemma. Jag vill passa på att varna känsliga läsare (såsom min käre David) redan nu att detta inlägg med största sannolikhet kommer spåra ur i yoga-nörderi och vad vissa skulle kalla ”hippie-flum.”

För några veckor sedan hade vi en hel veckas ledigt. Amerikanerna åkte på tur till Panama i sann turist-anda (chartrad buss, hotell, ej umgås utanför gruppen och dyl.) medan jag och Ellen besökte den karibiska kusten i Costa Rica. Vi stannade hela veckan i den reggae-vibrerande byn Puerto Viejo (de Talamanca). Tanken var yoga, veggo-mat och snorkling. Eftersom vädret inte levererade till fullo avstyrdes snorkelplanerna och dagarna fylldes istället av yoga, fantastiska möten och inre resor.

Vi började med att hyra cyklar och gav oss ut på en tur i lätt duggregn. Havet följde oss på vår vänstra sida och regnskogen på den högra. Luften var ren och klar och emellanåt passerade en bil, men i övrigt hördes endast vrålen av howler monkyes bland trädtopparna. Vi cyklade förbi yoga shalas, ashram, hotel och restauranger på vår väg mot Manzanillo, ca 1.5 mil bort. Väl framme vid den nästan öde stranden åt vi picknick medan vi blickade ut över de guppande båtarna på havet och den vita sanden.

Sunset Puerto Viejo

Redan på eftermiddagen var det dags för vårt första yoga pass. Hatha yoga. Två timmar var allt som behövdes för att reducera smärtan i kroppen och oron i sinnet. Höfterna öppnades och ryggen rätades ut. Savasana gav även intressanta insikter och efteråt blev jag inviterad till en sweat lodge som skulle hållas senare i veckan.

OM viva el momento yogashala

Morgonen efter testade vi på Shakti flow som var ett värmande och tekniskt pass med både halvmånen och diverse armbalanser. Shalan består av ett vackert dekorerat trädäck, omringat av regnskog och utsikt mot havet. På bakgården odlar de ekologisk choklad som säljs i caféet under shalan. Vi passade på att avsluta morgonens practice med en shot av varm 75 %ig cayenne-choklad.

OM

Vi hade ett till två yoga-pass om dagen och testade på stilar som Hatha love, Forest yoga och Ashtanga vinyasa. Jag är otroligt imponerad över Ellens motivation och ork under hela veckan! Framförallt vinyasan var krävande, även för min del, eftersom större delen av passet bestod av olika varianter av huvudstående. Jag fick med mig många intressanta och lärorika tips och övningar från vår vecka på OM viva el momento.

Puerto Viejo town

Efter två dagars fastande och byggande av sweat lodge, kom så dagen för ceremonin. Jag hade mött Rachel några dagar tidigare och ceremonin skulle hållas i hennes Hidden Garden mitt ute i regnskogen. Rachel är en otroligt intressant och inspirerande kvinna som jobbar som shaman, healer, naturmedicinsk läkare och yoga-instruktör. Traditionen vi skulle utföra kommer från Mexico, där Rachel tillbringade 4 år med indígenas för att tillslut få sin pipa. Denna tradition utförs vanligen vid fullmåne och är det feminina svaret till Soldansen; Baile de la Luna. (Min sydamerikanska blomma var så klart med på ett hörn med andra ord!)

Adho Mukha Svanasana, Puerto Viejo beach

En sweat lodge är alltså en hydda som fungerar som en bastu, men blir mycket varmare eftersom stenarna ligger i en stor eld i flera timmar och hyddan är väldigt liten. Vi hade fyra ”doors”, d.v.s. fyra omgångar av nya stenar. Sammanfattningsvis så ber man till Moder Jord om balans mellan kvinnligt och manligt på jorden, genom olika mantran och sånger. Svetten forsade, kläderna vara dyngsura och jorden vi satt på blev till lera som smetades ut över kroppen allt eftersom man bytte position. Efteråt låg vi i gräset, på den svala marken, framför den varma elden och tittade på den stjärnklara himmelen ovanför de höga träden. Det var en kärleksfull och fantastisk upplevelse tillsammans med nyfunna vänner.

Som om det inte vore nog med detta så bjöd P.V. dessutom på kulinariska lyckorus, svalkande hav och vänliga människor. Attityden är en helt annan på den karibiska kusten; istället för att ropa ”I love you mamaciitaaaa” efter gringas så hälsar alla vänligt på varandra, oberoende av nationalitet. Jag och Ellen träffade även en man som har en volontärorganisation, där han och hans fru hjälper ursprungsbefolkningen (indígenas) på olika sätt. Bland annat har de soppkök tre dagar i veckan och på lördagen var jag och Ellen på El Puente för att hjälpa till.

Cocles beach

Veckan var givande på flera nivåer och jag lämnade med löften om att snart komma tillbaka. Jag kan inte minnas senast jag kände att allting jag tar mig för är helt rätt. Det är så det ska vara.

Puerto Viejo fick snabbt en speciell plats i mitt hjärta och jag har en känsla av att det kommer bli ett av de ställena jag småningom kommer hänga min hatt. Rastlösheten reduceras.

Pura Vida